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Choose the Right Tractor for Your Homestead

At the point when Charles W. Hart and Charles H. Parr previously authored the term work vehicle concerning one of their petrol fueled pieces about a century prior, they portrayed a machine fit for facilitating the actual weight on ranches, all things considered. Albeit the steel-wheeled contraptions that Hart-Parr Manufacturing Co. first offered bear little similarity to the present smooth, smooth-running machines, their initial achievement was adequate to give the establishment to one of the longest-running and most unmistakable images of current agribusiness.

In the early years, work vehicles had motors, drive trains (total with grasps, transmissions and back axles), fixed force drive frameworks (belt-pulleys and force departures PTOs), and a drawbar for pulling. Step forward a couple of years to the appearance of specific hitches for mounted executes and water powered frameworks to raise and lower them, offering significantly greater adaptability. The present farm vehicles are as completely developed as our PC controlled vehicles and trucks. By all accounts, they actually have the greater part of their archetypes’ important segments. In any case, those parts have changed significantly, and as a rule incorporate at least two varieties.

When looking for another (or later utilized) farm vehicle, purchasers pick something beyond motor size and hitch hardware. There are no less than four discrete kinds of transmissions, at any rate three styles of tires and two drive frameworks to choose, notwithstanding drawbars, water powered outlets, administrator conveniences, counterweight and that’s only the tip of the iceberg. Settling on educated decisions when assembling another work vehicle or cautiously picking a pre-owned model is vital to having a completely practical, charming and safe homestead power insight.

The most effective method to Choose a Tractor: Horsepower with Bite

Work vehicle showcasing pitches generally highlight motor ability to draw planned purchasers, however that isn’t the most helpful number when attempting to comprehend a machine’s capacities. Nobody would ask a 25-drive grass work vehicle weighing 750 pounds to do a similar sort of work anticipated from a 4,000-pound, 25-pull ranch farm truck. A superior proportion of a work vehicle’s abilities comes from drawbar and PTO appraisals, which will be a lot higher for the homestead farm truck than the yard farm truck.

Albeit the worth is diverse for each machine, most work vehicles offer somewhere in the range of 75 and 85 percent of their motor’s force at the PTO, which is then accessible to run controlled executes, for example, balers or cutters. The farm vehicle’s drawbar drive, then again, can’t be precisely assessed from motor force since it relies upon the farm hauler’s weight, tires and foothold qualities. In similar working conditions, the heavier of two in any case indistinguishable farm haulers will have additionally pulling power, yet tire examples will likewise have an effect.

For most farm haulers, drive wheels furnished with bar-drag agrarian (R-1) tires will offer the best foothold in the field, albeit mechanical (R-4) tires likewise function admirably and settle on a decent decision for work vehicles that invest huge energy under a loader or out and about. Turf-type (R-3) tires have the most un-forceful carries and offer the least foothold generally speaking, yet they don’t ruin pleasantly manicured yards. Regardless, in the event that you are lacking in footing, the tires can be stacked with liquid for added weight, wrapped with chains — or both — to amplify their nibble.


How to Make Fertilizer From Chicken Manure

Chicken owners have at their disposal not only meat and eggs, but also a valuable ingredient for soil feeding – chicken droppings, which can be used in their garden or sold, for example, to tomato growers – this is one of the best food for tomatoes!

Feed intake in chickens is relatively high, but it can only remain in the digestive tract of the bird for a short time, so the yield of chicken manure is very high.

According to statistics, each adult chicken can produce 130-180 grams per day, that is, 55-60 kg per year! If you count on a larger scale than your family farm, a poultry farm with ten thousand chickens can produce about 1500 kg of fresh manure per day. And on the farm, 5-10 chickens will fully provide an uninterrupted supply of organic fertilizers for one vegetable garden.

About 40-70% of nutrients are excreted from the body of poultry, so chicken manure is considered nutritious for plants.

Compared to horse or cow manure, organic fertilizer made from poultry manure can provide more nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium for soil and plants.

Thus, fresh chicken manure contains about 70% water, 25.5% organic matter, 1.63% nitrogen, 1.54% phosphorus and 0.85% calcium. Since the diet of chickens is usually high in calcium to provide strong eggshells, the dung contains more calcium than other livestock manure.

As we can see, the nitrogen content is also high, so if you are going to start selling organic chicken, you need to know the rules for composting. Otherwise, the high nitrogen content in chicken manure will be dangerous for plants, burn the roots and ruin the crop. Fresh chicken manure can only be used as a natural herbicide against weeds.

Composting poultry manure softens the nitrogen and makes it garden-friendly.

How to compost chicken manure

Plants like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant benefit from adding calcium to the soil, so feel free to offer chicken compost to those growing these crops.

When proportioning, you want to get a ratio of 25 percent chicken manure to 75 percent other materials, which may include straw bedding, leaves, plant material or kitchen waste, and lawn clippings.

The internal temperature of the heap must be heated to 60 to 71 degrees Celsius to kill pathogenic bacteria.

Take your temperature daily with a thermometer and keep a data log. Your goal is to reach the specified temperature and maintain it for three days.

If you do not reach this temperature, the chances of survival of pathogens such as Salmonella will increase.

As we all know, ventilation is an important factor in compost temperature and fermentation effect. Remember to turn the contents over once or twice a day during fermentation.

It usually takes about a week for composting and fermentation, after which you cover the pile and leave for 80 days. This waiting period helps to ensure that pathogenic bacteria are killed. If you are not sure about the quality of the compost, then the waiting period can be extended to 12 months – that is, until the next season.

Do not add dog, cat or human excrement to your compost heap, as it cannot be composted safely.

How to Grow Sweet Potatoes in the Garden

Although the sweet potato is called sweet potato, it is actually a member of the Bindweed family of the Ipomoea genus. You will see this for yourself when you see the sweet potato plants during flowering and learn the agricultural technology of cultivation.

Sweet potatoes are a thermophilic summer crop. It is not suitable for cool or cold climates, nor for short growing seasons. In a number of Russian regions, we are dealing with both factors. But that doesn’t mean growing sweet potatoes in your garden is bound to fail!

Cold-resistant and early ripening varieties of sweet potatoes are little represented on the market (despite the fact that on the Internet they write that there are allegedly “many” such varieties), in fact, of those sold abroad, only Covington is widely known, an improved early variety that will ripen in short seasonal areas with proper care. The tubers of this variety have bright orange pulp with a beautiful, dark pink skin.

Unable to get your hands on seed early-maturing sweet potatoes, you can experiment with growing store-bought sweet potatoes.

Sweet potatoes do not reproduce like regular potatoes. You will need to get a shoot so that a vine has already grown from it.

It is necessary to start the experiment at least 3 months in advance. Late January – early February is a good time if you want to get seedlings in late May.

Our growing season is very short, the only way to extend it is by seedlings.

Growing sweet potatoes in a container

If you really want to be successful in a short growing season, plant the rooted cuttings in a large container. A small pot will not work. The depth should be at least 30 cm and the width should be 40 cm.

Pre-quench by opening the window on warm days. The transplant will take place about 4 weeks after the last frost.

The container can be placed in the greenhouse next to tomatoes, peppers or in a sunny spot on the site. The advantage of the container is that the soil warms up better.
Sweet potatoes love loose, well-drained soil with a pH of 5.0 to 6.5.

You can use a store-bought potting mix with compost, or make your own by mixing 1/3 compost, 1/3 vermiculite, 1/3 peat.

The distance between the seedlings should be 30 cm from each other. Sprinkle about 1.5 cm of soil on the stem.

After planting, water your plants well and protect them from cold nights if the container is in an open area. Set up a mini greenhouse with foil-wrapped hoops, or create a wind barrier from old windows. Anything that gives the plants more warmth will work.

Mulching with clean straw in the root zone is important for container growing as moisture evaporates faster than in the garden bed.

Sweet potatoes produce long stems. In the greenhouse, it makes sense to stretch the ropes to support the stems, in the open air – to make a lattice support.

Cut off growing points of vines that extend beyond 60 cm to stimulate lateral stem development. Remember, you can eat these leaves, which taste like spinach and are just as healthy.


The early ripening variety, if you are lucky enough to get one, will ripen in about 90-100 days, but count on 150 days if you bought tubers in the store.

For harvest, be guided by the color of the leaves. Sweet potatoes are ready to harvest when the foliage begins to turn yellow. You can leave the potted plants in light frosts, but the tubers must be dug out before the frost hits.

Remember that sweet potatoes break more easily than traditional sweet potatoes, and the skin is very thin during harvest. Dig them up carefully, then store them in a warm room for 6-8 weeks to improve the taste.

The simplest solution is to take plastic grocery bags, punch a few holes in them, and fill with enough sweet potatoes so that there is only one layer in each bag. Tie up the bags and place on the warmest and sunniest windowsill for 10 days. If there is no sun, cover the bags with a towel or blanket.

Then store the crop at about 12-15 ° C without access to light by wrapping the tubers individually with newspaper or simply spreading them out on a paper backing.

After a curing period, the potatoes will be sweeter and the skins will harden for storage over time.

Are sweet potatoes worth the effort? If you consider its reputation as a superfood, then it is. The tubers contain only 90 kcal per 100 g and are loaded with vitamin C, vitamin A, potassium and fiber. Baked with sour cream, sweet potato is a delicious dish!

How to Grow Vegetables in a Greenhouse

Nursery vegetables are solid, nutritious, and heavenly. Appropriately done, your nursery vegetable nursery should thrive in every single climate condition, without being contrarily influenced by changes in the seasons.

By putting resources into a nursery pack, you will have the option to utilize the sun ideally. Regardless of whether your structure is little and unheated, you’ll despite everything have the option to expand your developing prepare and get incredible produce from your nursery vegetable garden.

Greenhouse Vegetable Gardens

Nurseries are appropriate for developing vegetables in the accompanying manners:

  • Beginning tough vegetable plants early
  • Reaping delicate plants, (for example, French beans) sooner than expected
  • Developing delicate harvests, for example, tomatoes, chilies, peppers, cucumbers, and aubergines through blistering, summer months
  • Attempting such fascinating and warmth cherishing plants like yams, melons, and okra
  • Utilize the sun in fall to raise calabrese, French beans, and late plate of mixed greens crops

What is the best an ideal opportunity to utilize your nursery to develop veggies?

The response to this inquiry is: “at whatever point you need,” since a portion of the better nurseries, for example, Solexx and Monticello are all year nurseries. In the event that you can put resources into a radiator, you ought to have the option to guarantee that your nursery is flourishing even in the coldest long stretches of winter.

Notwithstanding, since this isn’t the most practical or earth benevolent choice, think about going occasional. Attempt the accompanying:

1. Winter to Spring

Whenever the situation allows, guarantee that you sow your strong plants (peas, onions, lettuce, new leeks, celeriac, cabbage, and Brussels sprouts) in winter through to late-winter. You can relocate them outside once the climate warms up.*

*Tip: Invest in a warmed propagator with the goal that your yields can grow.

On the off chance that you can run your warmer all through, such delicate nursery vegetables, for example, peppers and tomatoes will develop and flourish all through the cool a long time of winter and spring. Obviously, on the off chance that you live in a desert atmosphere you should guarantee that your nursery has appropriate ventilation to guarantee your plants don’t overheat.

2. Mid-Spring

In mid-spring, sow quickly developing plants. The most ideal alternatives incorporate sweet corn, melons, French beans, cucumbers, pumpkins and squashes, and courgettes. Along these lines, your harvests will be prepared for planting under glass towards the finish of spring or outside once summer moves around. Here, you can likewise utilize a warmed propagator to guarantee germination.

Think about the accompanying tips for developing in mid-spring:

  • If your nursery vegetable nursery is unheated, prepare developed tomato and pepper plants
  • Sow basil during this season; you can move the plants outside or inside in summer
  • Plant the nursery vegetables into their last situation in summer
  • Once the ice passes, solidify youthful plants and plant them outside

3. Mid-summer

This stage is one of the most energizing. Your plants will look incredibly green practically prepared for the outside world closer to the components.

To guarantee everything works out in a good way, do the accompanying:

  • Get free of every single spent plant and supplant them later with planted plants
  • Sow your parsley, French beans, and Calabrese outside

By and large, your comprehension of how nursery vegetables flourish during various seasons will enable you to recognize what to do and at what time to do it. Utilize the tips and techniques above to kick your nursery vegetables off.